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CHATEAU DE BIRAC

Château de Birac is a marvelous property for a family or group of couples seeking to discover the special delights of the Périgord, the region of Southwest France famed for its medieval history, lush farmland and sturdy red wines. It also strikes a resonant chord in the hearts of gastronomes, who come here in search of those brown pearls of the earth - truffles - and to buy duck and goose foie gras en directe from farmers.

Thanks to its swimming pool, superb modern kitchen and beautifully appointed bathrooms, Château de Birac is also the ideal retreat for those who want simply to relax and enjoy the pleasures of rural France. For interesting daytrips one can visit the open-air markets that abound in this region, or explore the fortresses, churches and other sites that are the legacy of wars waged here in medieval times by French and English kings seeking to establish hegemony over this verdant region. And for off-season visitors, a château with a state-of-the-art central heating system and no less than seven working fireplaces can be relied on to provide a warm and cozy setting for a fall or winter family gathering.

While we have seen many beautifully renovated properties in France, upon inspecting Château de Birac JUST FRANCE was struck by the extreme care and attention to historic detail the owner brought to bear on the restoration of this venerable 12th-century structure. Ceiling beams, for example, have been artfully stenciled to replicate the original patterns and colors. The massive stone walls, some 700 cm (about 2') thick, have been re-pointed and left bare, providing striking backdrops for the many oil paintings, tapestries and prints that adorn the walls. Leaded and stained-glass windows have been brought up-to-date while retaining their historical character. The exquisite boiserie (woodwork) and tiled floors throughout the château have been polished and restored to perfect condition. The many tables, armoires, cabinets and other antiques have been tastefully chosen to create an atmosphere of old-world refinement, but without the heaviness and over-adornment that frequently accompany such efforts.

Being situated in the small village (almost a hamlet) of Birac-sur-Trec, Château de Birac is undisturbed by traffic noise, as the village has virtually no commerce (there is one small café) and only a few residents. The silence is generally interrupted only by the bells of the village church, only a short walk away.

Despite its village location the château is exceptionally private, being shielded from neighboring properties by shrubbery and a thatched fence. Visitors also have the feeling of being on a rambling estate in the scenic Périgordian countryside. Behind the façade of the château, which faces the small road that runs through the village, there looms a park of some three hectares (about 6.5 acres). Within the park, connected by gravel paths that can be illuminated at night, are spreading lawns, fruit orchards, landscaped flowerbeds and stands of tall trees. Through this pastoral setting runs a small brook traversed by a wooden bridge. Situated in a landscaped area near the near the château is a beautiful 6m X 12m (20' X 40') pool, surrounded by a wide stone deck with lounge chairs and parasols. The pool is of normal depth, has circular steps at one end, and is fenced.

Public rooms

On the ground floor are the entrance foyer and guest lavatory, main living room, a separate sitting room, and a formal dining room. Each of the last three rooms has an impressive and fully functional fireplace with mantle. The living and sitting rooms are warmly furnished with comfortable sofas, armchairs and tables with lamps. Additional illumination comes from overhead eyeball fixtures that are cleverly concealed in the exposed beams. The living room fireplace is especially huge, measuring some 1.5m X 3m (5' X 10'). Equally striking are two large and colorful tapestries, medieval in style, of horses, plumed and ready for battle, with saddles bearing the rider's coat of arms. The dining room, a model for formal entertaining, has a high ceiling with stenciled beams, stone walls, tile floors and a formal table for up to twelve guests. Along one wall is an especially impressive 18th-century buffet. One can imagine the convivial winter ambiance with light from logs in the massive fireplace flickering off the polished wood of the chairs, and the impressive 12th-century buffet that lies along one wall.

The kitchen will be a delight for serious cooks, who will appreciate its spaciousness (about 30m2, 320 sq. ft.) and good-quality utensils. who will appreciate the good-quality utensils is spacious and well equipped for serving large groups. The room is well-lighted (overhead fixtures and an oval window opening onto the garden), well-equipped and aesthetically pleasing, with long tile counters, terra cotta tile floors and exposed ceiling beams. A huge fireplace (with a brochette for roasting a plump leg of lamb) adds to the country ambiance of the kitchen. In addition to the four-burner halogen cooktop and wall oven, appliances include a dishwasher, good-sized refrigerator, microwave oven and numerous countertop appliances. For breakfast there is a wooden table with matching blue chairs for ten. A laundry room with washing machine and separate dryer opens from the kitchen.

The bedrooms

Altogether the château has seven bedrooms. One of these, on the upper level, must be entered through the master bedroom (see below). Three bedrooms are on the ground floor, and four on the upper level. The upper level is reached by a stone staircase - wide, well lighted by wall sconces and fitted with an iron railing - that rises from the foyer. An additional bedroom on the uppermost level, under the eaves, is reserved for the owner's personal items.

Without exception each of the seven the bedrooms is exceptionally spacious; decorated with tastefully chosen antiques; has an armoire or in-wall closet, firm bedding, and bedside tables with good lamps for reading; and, whether overlooking the garden or the village, has large windows and receives abundant natural light. The master bedroom and two other bedrooms on the upper level have fireplaces.

Each of the five bathrooms is completely modern, and appointed with high-quality fixtures. Each bathroom has a WC, tasteful overhead lighting, and double vanities with gray marble counters.

Ground floor bedrooms

Two bedrooms open from the living room, their entrances being on each side of the huge fireplace that forms one end of the room. The first bedroom has twin beds in brass frames, and the second a 140cm (55" across) double bed in a brass four-poster frame. Both have antique chests of drawers, and beamed ceilings. Between the two bedrooms is a bath with an excellent stall shower, tiled in white.

The third ground floor bedroom, especially commodious and private, is reached by a corridor, beautifully lighted and furnished with tables and chairs, on the opposite side of the château. This bedroom has canopied twin beds in matching antique sleigh frames of polished walnut, an armoire, and a writing table with chairs. The ensuite bath has a tub with overhead shower.

Upper-level bedrooms

At the top of the stairway is the master bedroom, an enormous space that spans the width of the château, with windows overlooking the garden and the village. This is an extraordinary room, with perfectly restored original tile floors, an antique needlepoint tapestry, a sitting area with an antique desk and loveseat, and a four-poster queen-sized bed in a wood frame. The ensuite bath has an oversized tub and separate stall shower. Note: A wooden beam - large and unmistakably present - crosses part of the bathroom at a level of about a little over 1.5m (about 5'), necessitating some caution at first from occupants of the master bedroom.

The second upstairs bedroom, which opens directly off the huge master bathroom, is reached directly from the master bathroom, and is therefore most appropriate for children. This bedroom, no less aesthetically appealing than the others, has twin beds in pretty antique frames, and looks out onto the village. As in the bathroom, a low beam traverses part of the bedroom.

The final two bedrooms continue the theme of large, airy and luminous spaces decorated with fine antiques and oriental rugs that contrast with the earth-colored tile floors. One bedroom has a king-sized bed in four-poster iron frame and overlooks the garden; the second, with twin beds in exquisitely carved mahogany frames, looks onto the village. Both have large ensuite tile baths with a tub and hand-held shower. Each of these bedrooms has some eye-catching decorative touch, like a stunning antique desk, or a prayer stand, a carved chest of drawers, or a life-size painted wooden horse with a knight in armor.

For dining outside guests have two opportunities - a delightful little pavilion with a sloping roof that is near the pool, and a long, wide gravel area, along the rear façade of the château, where a table can be set up for evening meals. This area can be reached by a door that opens from the living room to an outside stone staircase, and is also easily accessible from the kitchen.

Château de Birac has numerous amenities, among them telephone jacks in every bedroom (ideal for laptop users), television (cable reception can be arranged) and a stereo system with CD player. The caretaker, who lives in a totally separate house, is on hand should any problems arise.

While guests at Château de Birac will take advantage of the local open-air markets to find meats, cheeses and produce (especially tomatoes) for which the Périgord is famous, for everyday needs there is a supermarket and all other sorts of commerce in nearby Marmande, which is less than 15 minutes to the west of Birac-sur-Trec by car. The red and white wines of Marmandais vineyards recently achieved AOC status (the reds are principally merlot and cabernet franc, the white sauvignon blanc), and merit a dégustation with a local vintner.

Sports enthusiasts will find much to do in the region. For golfers there are three golf courses nearby, including one only minutes away at Marmande. Bicyclists will profit from the relatively flat terrain and pretty backroads in the area. The Lot and Dordogne Rivers are both ideal for canoeing and kayaking.

The region also offers many attractions for sightseeing, with virtually every town or village having a church, fortress or other remnant of medieval times worthy of a visit. It was in this region that control seesawed back and forth between English and French rulers during the Hundred Years' War in the 13th and 14th centuries, and the collective follies of these encounters left much of historical interest in their wake. The lush countryside of Dordogne, also rich in history and sporting opportunities, is a drive of about one hour to the north.