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LA RICOLETTE
La Ricolette – the very sound of its name invokes an image of clean, pristine lines and jewel-like perfection – is a strikingly lovely two-bedroom house of great charm in one of the most dramatically beautiful regions of Provence. With its aura of freshness and breezy charm emanating from its luminous and uncluttered spaces, buoyant colors and fine country antiques, it is an interesting – and in some ways refreshing - change from the centuries-old stone homes and venerable mas that typify JUST FRANCE's larger properties in the Lubéron.
Despite the fact it was constructed within the last decade and thus cannot trace its lineage to an ancient sheep barn or olive oil mill, the house takes on an unmistakably Provencal character from its dull-red terra cotta tile roof, rose-ochre stucco exterior (the trademark of its neighboring village, Roussillon), pale-green shutters and antiqued interior wood finishes. As a vacation home it is ideal for those whose image of Provence includes utter privacy with hardly another structure in immediate sight, modern amenities, and a decorative scheme that emphasizes cheerful colors and sun-filled spaces. For good measure, one can throw in the stunning long-range view of the vineyards and orchards of the verdant Lubéron Valley.
Those who love the more rugged, semi-arid areas of Provence will find the setting of La Ricolette especially pleasing. The one-hectare (2.5-acre) property is set high on a garrigue, or limestone plain, that looks south and west toward the ochre cliffs of Roussillon and the mountains of the Lubéron range. The vegetation is characterized by low pine and hardwood trees, olive groves, and a rocky, sun-parched soil reminiscent of New Mexico and other parts of the American Southwest. With the gentle breeze that is almost always astir on the higher ridges of the Lubéron, the rustling of the leaves and the gentle sway of the branches, coupled with the brilliant sunshine that creates speckled patches on the floor of the terrace, lends an indescribable air of peacefulness to this already tranquil setting.
La Ricolette's single floor includes about 215m2 (2,300 sq. ft.), the space being imaginatively distributed between a living room, dining area, guest toilet, kitchen and two charmingly decorated bedrooms, each with a beautiful ensuite bath in taupe-colored tile. The floors throughout the house are square blocks of off-white stone with occasional area rugs, the ceilings are traversed by thick dark beams, and the walls are painted a creamy white.
The living room, dining room and kitchen, separated into distinct rooms by partial walls, are linked by tall, rounded archways that create the impression of a continuous flow of light and space. Even with its many broad windows and French doors that bring in cool breezes in the summer and abundant light in all months, La Ricolette's sophisticated central heating system ensures plenty of warmth for a fall or winter stay in Provence.
The dominant feature of the living room is its impressive wide chimney of white stone, before which are ranged a comfortable sofa and armchairs and a coffee table. A tall armoire, wide pillows in a floral pattern and a few objets d'art complete the décor, the result being a warm, convivial room for entertaining or relaxing. Concealed in an elegant armoire are a television with satellite reception (CNN and BBC among the channels), and a small stereo system with CD player.
In the adjacent dining room is a walnut farm table with matching chairs for up to eight, a striking antique sidepiece and – in one of the whimsical touches that gives La Ricolette its light-hearted ambiance – a well-executed mock 19th-century oil portrait of an elegant woman whose neckline rises into the tapered, angular face of - a greyhound. As in all the rooms at La Ricolette, the decorative scheme emphasizes simplicity, space and cleanness of line.
The fully equipped kitchen, its wide counters, double soapstone sink and many cabinets finished in an antique gray, has a full-array of modern appliances, cookware and all the necessaries for a formal dinner in the dining room or a casual barbecue on the terrace. The dishwasher and large two-door refrigerator are concealed by cabinet doors. The four-burner stove and oven are gas. Countertop appliances include a microwave oven, coffeemaker and toaster. There is a wrought-iron table with marble top for breakfast or extra workspace. Just off the kitchen is a laundry room with an American-style washing machine and separate dryer.
The two bedrooms, both charmingly decorated in different color schemes, are reached through wide doors that open from the living room or foyer. The spacious master bedroom, which faces southwest and thus opens directly onto the terrace and pool area, has a queen-sized bed with pale yellow bedspread that complements the off-white walls and dark walnut tone of the in-wall closet. The commodious ensuite bath has a tub with hand-held shower, bidet and WC. Waking up in this bedroom with a soft breeze and brilliant sunshine coming in through the French doors is an experience long to be remembered.
To reach the second bedroom one passes through a smaller room, another decorative tour de force, that can function as a sitting room, or an office. This room has an antique wood desk with a lamp and telephone, and a wide picture window looking north toward groves of trees. There are bookshelves and a fax machine. It would be hard to imagine a more perfect spot for laptop users, or a more inspirational environment for serious writers. The antique sofa, is upholstered in a pretty rose-colored fabric.
The second bedroom is equally charming but slightly smaller than the master bedroom. The two twin beds have oak and wicker headboards and white bedspreads with a red toile pattern. The ensuite bath has a wide stall shower with glass door, WC and – as is common throughout the house – recessed halogen overhead lighting.
One of most agreeable features of La Ricolette is its flagstone terrace. The terrace, long and wide, runs the length of the southwest-oriented façade of the house, and may be reached by double French doors from all rooms in the house except the second bedroom and office. With a wrought-iron table for six, built-in stone barbecue and a straw-covered trellis for shade, the terrace is a place to relax or enjoy a meal at any time of day. For that irresistible afternoon nap, there is a hammock in a quiet place just off the terrace, among the trees and near the garden of lavender bushes that brim with color during the summer.
Flagstone steps lead past rose gardens to the 4m X 9m (13' X 30') rectangular pool, a swatch of turquoise in the otherwise green and chalky landscape. The wide flagstone pool deck, shady in places and sunny in others, has an ample number of good-quality lounge chairs.
Roussillon, a pretty little village famed for its ochre-red cliffs, is a drive of about 3 km. Roussillon is filled with interesting shops and small galleries featuring the work of local artists. Because of those attractions it is one of the most visited villages in Provence, and during the tourist season is often overcrowded and difficult to navigate. But the other nearby villages in the Lubéron constellation – Ménerbes, Lacoste, Saint-Saturnin-d'Apt, and peaceful little Bonnieux, all of them with their local restaurants – are all fascinating and worthy of a visit, especially for lunch or on the days of their open-air markets. For shopping there is Apt, 11 km to the east, which has a supermarket, a variety of stores and – on Saturday morning – one of the most bountiful and animated markets in all of Provence.
Another appealing feature of La Ricolette is its proximity to Mas de Garrigon, a friendly, scrupulously clean, family-run country inn with an excellent and reasonably priced restaurant that rates mention in both the Michelin Guide Rouge and Guide Gault-Millau. (Gault-Millau awards the mas its dove symbol, indicating a place of exceptional tranquility.) A well-prepared Provençal meal can be enjoyed here in the cozy dining room on cool nights, while in summer guests may dine poolside with a view of the Lubéron.
What could be more pleasant? A morning attending an open air market in Bonnieux, followed by lunch there at Le Fournil, a drive through the Lubéron Valley to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to browse the antique shops, home for a dip in the pool, cocktails on the terrace, and a five-minute twilight stroll to Mas de Garrigon for dinner (don't forget to take a light sweater, even in August), perhaps with a red or chilled rosé from a local Côtes-du-Lubéron or Côtes-du-Ventoux vineyard. Then a walk back to La Ricolette under a Provencal sky thick with stars. And tomorrow? More soft breezes, sunshine and blue skies.
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