Pernes-les-Fontaines

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A stroll along the peaceful Rue de Brancas reveals the usual features of a Provençal village – plain stone walls interrupted by shuttered windows, some with flowerboxes, and heavy wooden doors recessed into the thick walls at street level. Those fortunate enough to leave this pleasant street and enter the house known as Bijou de Brancas soon appreciate the many delights hidden behind the freshly restored but otherwise unremarkable façade. With four large bedrooms, three new bathrooms, a spacious salon, convivial kitchen and charming terrace with outdoor eating, Bijou de Brancas is an inviting home for several couples or a family.

Being in the heart of a lively village offers the possibility of real immersion into the daily rhythms of Provence, from the ringing of the church bells to the sound of neighbors greeting each other in the street to the bustle around La Poste and its attendant shops. In Pernes-les-Fontaines there is plenty of commerce for daily needs and a number of interesting cafés and restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Au Fil du Temps, about three minutes’ walk from the house. Market day in Pernes is Saturday and offers guests a chance to experience a true Provençal marché within a two-minute walk. Pernes is halfway between Carpentras and L’Isle sur la Sorgue, which have enormous markets (on Friday and Sunday, respectively) that draw crowds of locals and tourists from across the region. The village of Pernes provides an excellent location to explore the Côtes du Rhône wine villages to the north and west and the perched villages of the Lubéron to the south and east. Historic Avignon, with its ancient streets and its ultra-modern TGV station, is just 20 minutes from the house. Dozens of other interesting villages and towns are within a 30-minute drive.

While opportunities for exploration abound, leaving the tranquility and comforts of Bijou de Brancas is a challenge. The house is so warm and welcoming, with every detail attended to and provided for. The American owner, who lives next door and is on hand to greet guests, renovated the house from top to bottom with the intention of renting the house to those who would appreciate its authenticity and its modern conveniences. The result is a very inviting house.

The common rooms are on either side of the entry hall, with a massive spiral staircase giving access to the bedrooms on two upper levels, and a door leading down to the basement laundry room, a medieval vaulted cave, with washer, separate dryer and utility sink. The salon is a large room with whitewashed ceiling beams and cut stone floors. There is a large window to the street and several elaborate wall sconces for light. A long sofa and an armchair are arranged before a large fireplace with a venerable stone base. A medium-sized TV with DVD player is cleverly arranged on one side of the fireplace to be visible yet unintrusive. The TV receives French channels only, and there is a good collection of classic movies, all in English. The dining area consists of a round wooden table for four. The table can be expanded to seat 6 or 8.

Across the foyer is the kitchen, a bright space with eat-in table for four and access to the terrace. A leaf for the table expands seating to six or eight. The C-shaped kitchen has an open island on one side, providing an obvious space to gather over conversation, fresh strawberries from nearby Carpentras or an assortment of farm cheeses from a local marché. The kitchen is well-equipped, with four gas burners, an electric wall oven, dishwasher, microwave, coffeemaker, toaster and large two-door refrigerator with icemaker. The counters and backsplash are bright yellow tiles and there is lots of undercounter shelf space neatly obscured by Provençal printed fabric. Next to the kitchen is a long rectangular powder room with built-in shelves near the entrance for extraneous kitchen equipment.

The terrace behind the house is yet another inviting space, with stands of oleander and bamboo forming the enclosure on three sides. A lovely fountain lines the back wall of the terrace, and there is a black wrought-iron table and chairs for four. For larger groups a hinged tabletop can be put over the table and finished with a tablecloth to seat six or eight. There are extra chairs for the table or to be arranged around the patio to take advantage of shade or sun. There is a small gas barbecue for grilling fresh meat or fish.

Guests have access to the owner’s small pool, located behind the terrace in a separate garden. The pool is irregularly shaped, approximately 5 m X 5 m (16’ X 16’) and is heated in the cooler months. The plunge pool is best for cooling off after a long day’s touring or for a child in the group to have some kid-type fun after being dragged to different markets and vineyards. The pool and garden are illuminated at night and the setting can be enjoyed from a couple of lounge chairs near the pool.

The bedrooms are on two upper levels, each different in style and furnishings but equal in appeal and amenities. All mattresses have an extra 2” pad for comfort, and in the three main bedrooms the twin beds can be properly connected and made up as a king-sized bed. All rooms have excellent lighting and ample space for folding and hanging clothes.

The first bedroom is traditionally furnished and very pretty, with high ceilings accentuated by exposed beams and a tall mirror above a corner fireplace (non-working). The bathroom occupies one corner of the room and is fully separated by a sturdy folding screen. Here is a clawfoot tub with handheld shower and pedestal sink with mirror. Shelves and hooks are subtly integrated throughout the space, another indication of the attention to detail paid by the owner in completing the furnishing of Bijou de Brancas. Occupants of this bedroom use the WC downstairs. Across the landing is the second bedroom. The room has large windows overlooking the street and exposed rafters and beams with their original wood stain preserved. There is a small sitting area with a comfortable armchair and table. For clothes storage there is a stenciled chest of drawers and a wrought-iron unit with shelves and hanging space. The compact ensuite bathroom is beautifully finished in tumbled marble of a rose, ocher and cream combination. A large shower stall has a sunflower head and walls of antique glass. The WC is in the bathroom.

Upstairs are two further bedrooms and a solarium. The first room has built-in shelves on either side of the bed. Small windows set high in the wall and a skylight supplement the light from another handsome sconce and the bedside lamps. At the end of the hall is the third bathroom with stall shower, identical to the one described above. The fourth bedroom is a few steps up from the landing and has a daybed and separate trundle bed. This bedroom is most appropriate for children because of its slanted ceiling (approximately 5’6” at the lowest point). The room is spacious and bright, with in-wall closets and a skylight. Guests use the bathroom across the landing.

The solarium is so named because of the glass shutter that forms the roof over the landing. It can be opened automatically for ventilation and also to catch a glimpse of the neighboring rooftops, the church spire and, the town's medieval tower, which are both illuminated at night. Here is a small table with two chairs and, on the landing, a small refrigerator for cold drinks.

With various places to gather for meals or conversation and as many opportunities to retreat for reading or a nap, Bijou de Brancas offers many of the conveniences of a larger house. Its setting in a village and its consistently high level of furnishings provide further convenience and comfort. The house is a true gem and an excellent spot for a short visit or an extended stay in Provence.