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La Ferme d'Aubignan

Note: A French couple that serves as guardians of the property lives in a separate apartment at the east end of the house. The apartment has its own entrance and separate parking area. The guardians take care of the grounds and pool, and can assist in the event of a mechanical problem. The guardians do not use the pool and in no way interfere with guests' privacy or enjoyment of the property.

La Ferme d'Aubignan, a drive of less than 10 minutes from the medieval town of Carpentras, offers a classic Provençal experience for those who want a pool and bucolic surroundings with complete tranquility and gorgeous long-range views, but for whom a designer kitchen or certain other accoutrements of grande luxe are not necessary. Set among lawns and shade trees on an elevated half-hectare (1¼-acre) terrain surrounded by vineyards, the 18th-century farmhouse (part of the structure dates to the 13th century) is notable for its luminous salon, five ensuite bedrooms and an elegant entry foyer where the works of art include a striking portrait by a student of Titian (the painting is a copy; the original is in the Louvre). Antique tile floors, heavy ceiling beams, soft pastel colors, windows framed by toile de Jouy drapes and a few well-chosen antique chests and commodes are among the features that lend an unmistakably Provençal ambiance to this restored country house.

The mas, with 310 m2 (3,335 sq. ft.) of living space, is an ideal headquarters for exploring the supremely beautiful countryside of the northern Vaucluse. And after a busy day of touring small villages, attending open-air markets, seeing Roman ruins at Vaison-la-Romaine or visiting the vineyards of the Côtes-du-Rhône wine-producing region, one can return to La Ferme d'Aubignan to read on the terrace in the shade of two massive plane trees, or take advantage of the 6 m X 12 m (19.5 ' X 39') pool. Such is the perfect prelude to an al fresco dinner prepared at home, or a visit to a bistro or fine restaurant in Carpentras or one of the many villages in the immediate area.

From the foyer, where there is a guest lavatory, one passes into the salon. This voluminous rectangular-shaped room is filled with light from multiple French doors that open onto the south and west-facing front and side terraces, which are bordered by a low stone wall. At one end is a sitting area with a sofa and armchairs, and a stereo system. At the other end is an exquisite Playel baby grand piano, tuned and ready for playing, where from the bench a musically inclined visitor can pick out a Chopin étude while enjoying views toward the town of Orange and beyond to the Cévennes Mountains.

In the middle of the room is a dining area with a long table for up to 12 guests. The high slanted ceiling, exposed stone walls and views to the horizon make this room a comfortable gathering place in all seasons. With the French doors open to the breezes, a summer dinner in the salon has the feeling of being outside in the open air.

Stone stairs lead from the foyer to the upper level, where a wide landing, brightened by two skylights, provides access to the master bedroom and four medium-sized guest bedrooms, all simply but cheerfully decorated in a Provençal style. In all bedrooms there are twin beds that may be joined to form a queen-sized bed. All bedrooms have bedside tables with reading lamps, adequate storage space in an armoire or built-in closet, a table or writing desk, and firm, good-quality mattresses. Each bedroom also has a pleasing view and receives plenty of natural light.

Two of the guest bedrooms are separated by a common area, and if desired may be closed off to create a separate suite of rooms. The master bedroom, which overlooks the front terrace and its plane trees, is especially large, and has a separate office area with a glass desk. The other two bedrooms connect to one another, but also have their own entrances. This property is not altogether suitable for handicapped guests, as in all of the bedrooms there are some steps involved, either at the entrance or in the bathrooms.

Each bedroom has it own ensuite bath. Four baths - including the master suite - have tiled showers; the fifth bath has a tub with wall-mounted shower. Four of the five bathrooms have a WC, while for the fifth the WC is just across the hall.

The kitchen, which opens off the entry foyer on the side opposite from the salon, has all necessary appliances for a pleasant stay, among them a four-burner gas stove with oven, dishwasher, small two-door refrigerator and a variety of countertop appliances. There is a dining table where up to eight can enjoy breakfast or an informal supper. With its exposed shelves, old tile floors and completely functional but somewhat dated appliances, the kitchen has an aspect that falls somewhere between rustic and modern, closer to the latter. Most guests will find the ambiance here pleasantly familial and relaxed.

Beyond the kitchen is the library, a cozy room with a sitting area that looks onto the front terrace. While this room is most enjoyable in off-season, when guests can take advantage of the fireplace, the library is always a pleasant place to watch television (French channels only) or peruse one of the thousands of French and English-language books in the floor-to-ceiling bookcases.

Among the amenities at Ferme d'Aubignan are a fax machine on a separate line, and multiple telephone outlets, including one in four of the five bedrooms. For laundry there is a French-style washing machine in an attic space reached by a short staircase from the bedroom level. There is no dryer.

The swimming pool, which does not have a deck and is surrounded by a lawn, is about 25 meters (a meter is roughly a yard) from the house and easily visible from the salon. The pool is not fenced, but there is an alarm system for the protection of children. The most stunning vantage point from this secluded property is on the west side of the house, where there are sweeping views in all directions. To the south are forests and vineyards, to the west Orange and the endless swath of vineyards that cover the southern Rhône Valley, and to the north the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain chain and Mont Ventoux, the highest peak in Provence (1,912 m, 6,280') and frequently the nemesis of cyclists in the annual Tour de France bicycle race. Because of its elevated position, the property generally enjoys a gentle breeze that sounds softly in the leaves of the plane trees.

Another feature of Ferme d'Aubignan that will delight hikers and cyclists is the fact that the northern side of the property is bordered by the Canal de Carpentras. The canal, flanked by footpaths, is part of an elaborate irrigation system, created in the 19th-century, that is largely responsible for the greenery and rich agricultural productivity of the northern Vaucluse. The footpaths traverse level terrain, and are ideal for low-energy hiking or biking. For an enjoyable outing one can hike to Carpentras for the midday meal, then walk off the effects of a big lunch with a return hike along the canal. For more rigorous activity the rugged mountains of the Dentelles de Montmirail have scores of trails, all scrupulously blazed and mapped by the park system of the French government.